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The Portara, a marble temple doorway, silhouetted at sunset

Journal · 10 September 2026

The meltemi, explained for couples

Why your July ferry might be cancelled, why your beach is suddenly full of sand, and how to plan so that neither ruins a day.

Portara, Naxos

10 September 2026

Every summer a dry north wind sets in across the Aegean. Greeks call it the meltemi. On a hot afternoon it is welcome. On a north-facing beach, or on a small catamaran between islands, it can be another matter.

The short version

  • It is strongest in July and August, and can blow for days at a time.
  • It hits the Cyclades hardest. The Ionian, on the west side of Greece, is outside it.
  • Small fast boats are the first to be cancelled. Big ferries usually sail.
  • South-facing beaches are your friend.

We plan July and August trips around it: shorter ferry hops, bases with beaches on more than one side, and a spare night before an international flight. Our meltemi guide goes group by group.

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