Every island cooks differently

1. 01

   Eat late

   Greeks dine from around 9 pm in summer. Tables at 7 pm are easy to get, but the atmosphere builds later.

2. 02

   Order for the table

   Meze and mains are shared. Order a few plates, see what arrives, and order more.

3. 03

   Look at the fish

   Fresh fish is usually priced by the kilo. Ask to see it and agree the weight before it goes on the grill.

4. 04

   Ask for the local wine

   Assyrtiko from Santorini, Robola from Kefalonia, Vidiano from Crete, Agiorgitiko from Nemea, Debina from Zitsa in Epirus. Many tavernas also pour their own house wine by the carafe.

5. 05

   The free dessert

   Many tavernas bring fruit, a small sweet or a shot of raki, tsikoudia or mastiha with the bill. It is a kindness, not a sales trick.

Cyclades

1. Santorini fava φάβα Cyclades A silky purée of yellow split peas, grown in volcanic soil and topped with capers, onion and olive oil.
2. Revithada ρεβιθάδα Sifnos Chickpeas baked slowly overnight in a clay pot. On Sifnos it is traditionally a Sunday dish.
3. Naxos graviera γραβιέρα Νάξου Naxos A firm, nutty cheese from Naxos’s inland pastures. Order it fried as saganaki, or eat it plain with local wine.

Ionian

1. Sofrito σοφρίτο Corfu Thin slices of veal cooked gently with white wine, garlic and a lot of parsley. A Venetian legacy.
2. Pastitsada παστιτσάδα Corfu A spiced rooster or beef stew in tomato with cinnamon and cloves, served over thick pasta.
3. Kumquat liqueur κουμκουάτ Corfu The small citrus fruit grows on Corfu and turns up as liqueur and as sweets.

Crete

1. Dakos ντάκος Crete A barley rusk softened under grated tomato, mizithra cheese, oregano and Cretan olive oil.
2. Gamopilafo γαμοπίλαφο Crete The “wedding pilaf”: rice cooked in rich broth and finished with staka butter. Fitting for a honeymoon.
3. Staka στάκα Crete A rich cream made from the top of sheep’s milk. It is eaten with eggs or with bread, ideally after a long walk.

Mainland

1. Souvlaki and gyros σουβλάκι Athens The Athenian late-night meal. Ask locals where their neighbourhood’s best is; everyone has an opinion.
2. Koulouri κουλούρι Athens A sesame bread ring sold from street carts in the morning. It is breakfast on the walk up to the Acropolis.
3. Kalamata olives and oil ελιές Καλαμάτας Messinia Almond-shaped purple olives from Messinia, where many families still press their own oil.
4. Nemea Agiorgitiko Νεμέα Nemea Greece’s best-known red-wine region, a short drive from Mycenae. Some wineries offer visits by appointment.
5. Epirus pies πίτες Epirus Hand-stretched pies, the region’s pride: greens, cheese, leek or wild herbs. Every village argues over its own.
6. Metsovone μετσοβόνε Metsovo A smoked cheese from the mountain town of Metsovo, between Ioannina and Meteora.
7. Formaela φορμαέλα Arachova A firm, squeaky cheese from Arachova, served grilled or fried.